BIASA: 30 YEARS OF REFINING RELAXED SILHOUETTES

Images courtesy of Biasa & Getty Images

‘quintessentially chic’

Of Indonesia’s 17,000 islands, Bali is undisputedly the most visited by tourists. Java might’ve lent its name to coffee worldwide, but Bali defines tourism for Indonesia. Its natural beauty and unique Hindu-based culture has lured tourists for over a century. In the 2002 movie The Gathering Storm, Clementine Churchill was portrayed taking a break from her irascible husband Winston by boarding a cruise to Bali and Komodo islands in the early 1930s.

Watch here the recap of Biasa’s Rhapsody (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/C7Bh-RTfKEI)

The constant flux of foreign tourists and expats, residing in Bali for business or pleasure, has nurtured a market for relaxed, climate-friendly, modern wardrobe often found in tropical holiday destinations. The mass-productions are sold at stalls near tourist hangouts, the thought-out designs in better quality can be found at chic boutiques in tony neighborhoods like Canggu and Seminyak. Biasa, a brand founded in Bali by the Italy-born Susanna Perini in 1994, certainly falls into the second category. As the preferred silhouettes have shifted to more relaxed looks since the pandemic, casual clothing brands like Biasa are enjoying a wider playing field.

Presented by Galleria

After shying away from fashion shows, Biasa started to appear on a couple of events in Jakarta this year. A collaboration with a well-known brand at a fashion festival earlier in the year, then a solo show at the 17^th Jakarta Fashion Week last month to celebrate its 30^th anniversary with a title ‘Rhapsody’.

Setting its presentation to 3 parts, the show opened with a narrative of harmony, voiced out by black and white palette. Polka-dot skirts met ribbon-made bustiers, checkered bags toted next to the brand’s signature stripe pants. How the colors were laid out reminded me of the classic yin-yang symbol.

The second sequence was an ode to nature, served through the natural indigo dye contrasted with white. Oversized clothing pieces, including caftans, were decorated with statement wooden accessories and classic carryall bags in tobacco leather. The overall silhouette is quintessentially chic for lounging by a clear pool amid lush greenery.

The last part symbolized sangha, the Sanskrit word that means community and is the basis for awareness, understanding and acceptance. Floor-length strappy dresses and balloon-shaped pants, adorned with shawls or oversized floppy hats, were designed in sunburst hues that might remind wearers of Bali’s gorgeous sunsets. Overall, the show was enjoyable and well received by attending guests of both local and expat communities.

Retail clothing is a finicky business that has seen big brands bowing out, especially during the recent pandemic. Bali itself was badly hurt during Covid. The fact that Biasa has survived numerous downturns from 1997 Asian monetary crisis to the on-going 5-month deflation, downturns that have slowed down both foreign and domestic tourists, is a testament of the brand’s business acumen. Perhaps with the year’s consecutive shows in Jakarta, Biasa is planning to get deeper into Jakarta’s local market. If that was the case, a tweak or two in designs might be in order. As the now-defunct Animale and the more recent Paulina Katarina, both Bali-based brands, could attest to, Jakarta-based customers demand a different style of fashion. After spending 3 decades refining relaxed silhouettes, Biasa might just like a new challenge to further expand its business, which would be worth to watch. (–Lynda Ibrahim-)