SMERTI BY IWAN TIRTA: WHEN BATIK BECOMES A LIVING MEMORY

Images courtesy of Iwan Tirta

50 Menswear and Womenswear Looks Presented at Jakarta’s Historic Gedung Kesenian Jakarta

Memory is never static. It evolves, acquires new meaning and resurfaces in unexpected forms. This idea lies at the heart of SMERTI — IWAN TIRTA Runway Collection 2027, a collection that reimagines batik as a living cultural language rather than a relic of the past.

Presented by BCA and IWAN TIRTA on 8 October 2026, SMERTI unveiled 50 looks at Gedung Kesenian Jakarta, marking the first fashion show ever staged at the historic performing arts venue. The occasion brought together two expressions of cultural memory: batik, with its intricate visual vocabulary, and architecture, shaped by generations of artistic expression.

Heritage in a New Form
Drawing from the IWAN TIRTA archive, SMERTI revisits motifs inspired by the relationship between humanity and the natural world. Through shifts in scale, composition, repetition and placement, familiar patterns are transformed rather than simply reproduced. Some emerge in their entirety; others appear fragmented, reflecting the fluid nature of memory itself.

The collection explores soft architectural dressing, balancing measured construction with fluid silhouettes. Sculptural tops, tailored jackets, flowing skirts and elongated dresses reveal a contemporary approach to proportion and movement. A palette of forest green, slate blue, rust red, charcoal and ivory allows intricate batik patterns to command attention without overwhelming the silhouette.

Presented by Interni Cipta Selaras

Batik in 100 per cent cotton and TENCEL™ is complemented by silk and denim styling pieces, creating a dialogue between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary materiality.

A Stage for Cultural Memory
Under the artistic direction of Shadtoto Prasetio of Shadtoto Studio, the presentation responded to the venue’s historic character through dramatic lighting, stage composition and carefully orchestrated movement. The red curtains, darkened auditorium and magenta runway created a theatrical setting in which each look emerged as part of a larger narrative.

The experience culminated in a special performance by Indonesian band Efek Rumah Kaca, bringing fashion, architecture and music into a shared emotional register.

With SMERTI, IWAN TIRTA advances a compelling proposition: preserving heritage does not mean keeping it unchanged. Batik remains relevant when its language continues to evolve—worn, experienced and reinterpreted for each generation. Here, the past is not merely remembered; it becomes a foundation for the future.