BERLUTI : SPRING – SUMMER 2024 COLLECTION
Published by Sugar & Cream, Tuesday 13 February 2024
Images courtesy of Berluti
The Contemporary Culture of Masculine Dress Codes
The epitomic wardrobe balances the contrasts called for by modern life: individuality versus adaptability, substance versus lightness, and exceptionality versus ease. For Spring-Summer 2024, Berluti reflects the contemporary culture of masculine dress codes in a quintessential proposal founded in the Maison’s own genetics. Anchored in everyday savoir-faire, the collection studies – both pragmatically and figuratively – the fusion of contrasts that shapes authentic garments and accessories relevant for today. Over two chapters divided into four releases, the proposition transitions from Spring to Summer in an exploration of the iconographic codes of Berluti – from the Patina to the Scritto and the Iconic print – reinvigorated in new artisanal manifestations. Rooted in reality but raised to a higher level, the collection is an exercise in the art of mixing: the mixing of fabrics and leathers native to either garments or accessories within the same pieces, as well as the simultaneous creation of wardrobe pieces made for mixing.
The Vibrant Luxury story embodies the premise of fusion in garments that blur the lines between fabric and leather. A petrol blue charbonnier jacket morphs suede and tech wool, a sand-coloured military jacket blends panels of suede and cotton, and a grey water-resistant carcoat is constructed with leather accents. A focus on lightness materialises in a navy windbreaker crafted in unlined suede, and in super-light knitwear like an army green unstructured jacket knitted in cotton-silk. Berluti’s heritage Scritto motif integrates into garments, conjured within the metallic technical fabric of a packable parka, or subtly evoked within knitwear. Garments adapt elements of the Maison’s storied accessories as adornments, from the characteristic stitching of the knitted Shadow sneaker to the iconic half-zip pocket of the Un Jour bag. Similarly, blousons in suede and leather draw on the colours and textures of the Patina.
Presented by Zipblind
Spring accessories mix and match the signatures of Berluti. The B Volute loafer and 48-hour bag in grained leather integrate an archival iron moulure emblem adapted from the staircase in the historic Rue Marbeuf boutique. A square-toe loafer and boot in grained leather appropriate the double-flap of the Grand Ecritoire briefcase. Crafted in flexible Venezia leather, the Demesure Flex is a comfort-driven take on the Maison’s formal shoe of the same name. With its envelope-shaped bottom and trompe l’oeil front pocket, the Toujours messenger evolves its namesake tote bag into a soft, roomy design in Ice Gold or Jungle Green Venezia leather.
The Iconic Summer story cultivates the collection’s attention to lightweight materials and lightness of construction. Overdyed softly-structured linen suits with trousers in shades of blue refine a summer classic. A navy ripstop blouson with matching trousers embody the ease of generational suiting. A perforated navy leather blouson translates an autumnal trope into the language of summer. The signifiers known from the Maison’s accessories are converted into garments: the Scritto pattern embellishes the pockets of linen shirts, the half-zip of the Un Jour bag assimilates onto chinos, and the B logo features as embroideries on knitwear. A playful take on the fusion of accessories and garments, a new graphic composed of shoes and bags illustrations appears in the prints of shirting and the intarsia of knitwear.
Summer accessories embrace a relaxed sensibility elevated through historical signatures. Cementing the sentiment, the Shadow sneaker transforms into a new knitted sandal, featured alongside the original shoe in knit or leather. The rubber-soled Playtime sneaker draws on the codes of hiking through criss-crossed laces framed by zigzag stitching and materialises in suede inspired textile for added versatility. Cut high on the foot, the Eden loafer is a new grained leather slip-on constructed from principles of comfort. A cornerstone in the iconography of Berluti, the Toile Marbeuf canvas graces a new functional backpack as well as the Baluchon, a new magnified shoulder bag.
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